Jambo means hello!
My name is Matt and I've known Nic since we were in the dorms together at Cal Poly. We lived together in a house for a few years in San Luis Obispo, as well. I have chatted with Nic many times over the past 7 months since he left for his Peace Corps duty, and there have been many things he mentioned that I did not understand. Now having been in Kenya with him for the past 11 days, including four and half days in Kilisa, his little village, I have a much better understanding about what he has been talking about! I'll share a bit with you.
1) Why it takes Nic 4-5 hours to get from Nairobi to KilisaLooking at the map of Kenya, you can find the town of Machakos a short distance southeast of Nairobi, and Nic said that he is about an hour and half south of there. Comparing that distance to distances in California, it looks like it wouldn't take him any more than 2 hours to get to his village! Now having ridden in the matatus and experienced some of the worst roads I've had the pleasure of "driving" on, I understand! The matatus pack as many people into them as possible, and the riders get on and off almost anywhere they please, though the transfers usually occur at staging areas. There are many of these areas, and each stop takes up valuable travel time. And during the times of actual driving, the matatus can't go too fast because the road surface is either dirt, destroyed, or packed with cars. For example, on our ride into Nairobi this morning we started off on dirt, took a small detour around a section that has been under construction for at least the past last 7 months, enjoyed the roller coaster of pavement that bounced us up to six inches in the air, and finally got to the main road in Kenya, the Mombasa Road. At first this main road was quite pleasant, but when we got near the actual city, the road went to hell in a hand basket before you could say "Aiieeeeeeee!!!!". Trucks, buses, vans, cars, and motorcycles battled for position in this Kenyan version of Mad Max, driving over potholes the size of Smart Cars and avoiding them as best as we could. Finally we arrived in Nairobi a bit over three hours after we had left, a personal best for Nic (and I'm happy to have participated in this record-setting journey). If the road was kept up as good as the worst freeways in California and we could drive our own car, the journey probably would have been about as exciting as driving from San Francisco to Santa Cruz.
On the plus side of all the driving, the area really is beautiful. The poor villagers along our roads all had million dollar views of an amazing sunrise, mountains, and nice vegetation.
2) Kenyan FoodI got to sample much of the food staples of Kenya: Ugali, chapati, sukuma, githeri, & Coca Cola.
Ugali: In a word: interesting. It is probably the most bland food I've ever tasted, and apparently its one of the main thing Kenyans miss when they visit or move to America. Ugali is a cake-like mash of ground corn and water, cooked in a pot over a flame. Nic compares it to the coating on the outside of a tamale, though I think this is a very positive comparison. I'll try not to demean it too much since it is such an important staple to people here, but I wasn't a fan. Maybe next time! The kids always had a huge smile on their face while eating it.
Chapati: This stuff is awesome! It reminded me of a thick unsweetened crepe, tortilla, or gordita shell. Chapati doesn't need much of a description because its good. Nic says he can make it, so next time you see him in California get him to make you some! It'd be even better made into a sandwich or covered with some meat and cheese, but its good plain as well.
Sukuma: This is what we call kale. They cut it into little shreds and heat it. Its not too bad, especially if you've had it before, but don't be too excited to try it. This is often eaten with ugali, and a positive is that it is quite healthy for you and has actual taste to it.
Githeri: This is a mixture of whole beans and corn. Its pretty good but would be better mixed into a carnitas burrito. Since there are no burritos here, the githeri will have to do. It has a bit of taste and is very healthy for you, so it keeps you satisfied until the next meal, whenever it is, comes around.
Coca Cola: This stuff is everywhere! I drank more soda this past week than in the past four months combined. When the food is relatively bland, Coke helps you remember what it is like to taste. Nic says that he gets a Coke just to give his mouth something interesting to taste, and hopefully now you have a better understanding as to why!
3) Why Nic is always available to chat when I'm in the office at 9:30 am Pacific Standard Time.Kenya is 10 hours ahead of California, so when its 9:30 am for me, it is 7:30 pm for him. By this time, its completely dark in Kenya, Nic has finished all his evening cooking, cleaning, and chores, and he is in bed. With no electricity, there is not much (if anything) to do after dark. Nic lies in bed with his Blackberry to make contact with the outside world and catch up on the evening's news. By this time every evening I'd be lying next to him, watching TV on the iPod or reading my book. If you're ever available around this time, I'm sure Nic would love to chat with you as well while he is lying there!
4) The economic differences of KenyaWell, I guess I don't actually understand the economic differences of Kenya, but at least I have had the opportunity to see how both sides live, and in such close proximity to each other. Example: This morning Nic and I woke up in his village southeast of Nairobi and struggled to make a peanut butter and banana sandwich and finish packing our bags in the dark. We walked to the dirt road and hailed down a van matatu about 15 minutes after we got there. We drove past people walking to the marketplace and past some of the economically poorest people I have ever seen. In terms of physical wealth, these people have none. Three hours later we were in Nairobi, and many areas we walked through to get to our hostel still were very downtrodden. We checked into the hostel and then made our way to a local mall to see a movie and get some food. The mall was out of control! There are actually two malls that are quite nice. They have United Colors of Benetton, Adidas, Nike, heck, even a makeshift Apple Store! The restaurants were nice, the movie theaters clean, and everybody looked very well dressed and happy. The nicer mall even had an indoor waterfall to decorate the center area. This is just 3 hours away from villages that have no running water or electricity and people live on less than $2 per day! I don't want to debate too much about these differences, but rather want to just highlight the vast differences that do exist. Which brings me to my next understanding...
5. How people can live on less than $2 per day.I have always heard about poverty scales, and how people are defined as "poorest of the poor" if they live on less than a dollar or two per day. I could never understand how it was actually possible to get enough food and water to live with this measly amount. Now I do.
The exchange rate for Kenyan Shillings to US Dollars in currently about 80 to 1. Living on less than $2 per day requires all food and other things to be purchased for less than 160 Kenyan Shillings. Here are some food prices to see how it is possible:
Tomato: 5 KES
Onion: 5 KES
2 Potatoes: 5 KES
Kale: 10 KES
Avocado: 10 KES
1 KG of corn meal: 32 KES
Coca-Cola: 20 KES
1 KG of rice: 30 KES
Banana: 5 KES
Mango: 10 KES
With these prices, you can eat enough to get by and have a little left over for fuel, shelter, and clothing. Food wont be exciting, shelter wont have any comforts, and clothing will have no definite size or style, but you'll be able to survive. Instead of living paycheck to paycheck, they literally live day to day, buying food just before eating it. Its not a good existence, but it is an existence at least.
I think that about does it for now! If you have any other questions for Nic or I, please leave a post and we'll get back to you. I'm sure I left many things out, but its getting late and I need to make sure my bags are packed well for my flight to Egypt tonight. Thanks for reading!
Kwaheri means farewell.